{"id":53,"date":"2018-04-12T01:08:39","date_gmt":"2018-04-12T01:08:39","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/projects.nyujournalism.org\/ontheroadinthecitygroup1\/?page_id=53"},"modified":"2018-04-12T01:08:39","modified_gmt":"2018-04-12T01:08:39","slug":"tale-of-two-tours","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"http:\/\/projects.nyujournalism.org\/ontheroadinthecitygroup1\/tale-of-two-tours\/","title":{"rendered":"A Tale of Two Tours"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Countless tour buses and souvenir kiosks sit on State Street, right outside Battery Park. This sidewalk \u2013 because of its proximity to the Ellis and Liberty Islands ferries \u2013 is often crowded with out-of-towners waiting to ride the red Big Bus tours that hastily take them around Manhattan\u2019s landmarks. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">And lying right in front of a hot dog stand with trash dangling from it, is probably the oldest European-made relic in Manhattan. Hidden in plain sight, a tiny cannon mounted on a pedestal, bearing a plaque that says, \u201cThis ancient cannon was exhumed in 1892 on the site of no.55 Broadway on the corner of Exchange Alley, or \u2018the highway leading to the fortification\u2019 called Oyster Pasty 1695-1783.\u201d Now it goes unseen.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I learned about this on a tour about the Dutch remnants from the New Amsterdam era. It\u2019s our tour guide Justin Rivers\u2019 favorite story. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cUsually there\u2019s two to three people sitting or hanging their garbage on it,\u201d he explained. \u201cNobody knows it\u2019s there, so when I bust my way in with the tour, and I\u2019m talking about what is most likely the oldest european artifact in New York \u00a0and it has a bag of garbage hanging off the side of it\u2026 I just love telling that story because it\u2019s such a surprise!\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Rivers is visibly passionate about history, which made the tour all the more enjoyable. He is the fun middle school teacher you wish you had had: soft spoken, well read, yet exuding genuine enthusiasm for what the average person would find to be boring history. In his backpack he carries about a dozen different maps, laminated pictures of old paintings of New Amsterdam and important characters from the times such as Peter Stuyvesant. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Meanwhile, a block away from the cannon on the northside of Bowling Green, tourists congregate around the Charging Bull to pose for a picture. While some choose to lean on its head, others squat by its polished balls for good luck. The Bull \u2013 sculpted by Arturo di Modica and installed overnight in front of the Stock Exchange in 1986 \u2013 was considered an act of vandalism before being moved to Bowling Green, where it became a major tourist attraction.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Both objects are respectively emblematic of important times in the neighborhood\u2019s history. The cannon is a reminder of New York City\u2019s origins in New Netherland, whereas \u00a0the Bull critiques American capitalism and the bullish attitudes of big business. They are also components of many bus and walking tours that happen around Lower Manhattan. There are over a dozen tours that take place in the Financial District; this is the tale of two of them. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I spoke with two tour guides who take different approaches to talking about the history of Lower Manhattan. While some like Rivers are interested in the neighborhood\u2019s origins, others concern themselves with its current dynamics. For the last three years, Michael Pellagatti has been giving a tour about Occupy Wall Street drawn from his three month long experience as an activist living in Zuccotti Park in 2011. \u201cIt\u2019s one thing to read about history, it\u2019s another thing when you live it,\u201d he said. His own knowledge of the events that transpired and the movement itself was evident in the confident manner he spoke about his time as a protester. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Rivers\u2019 tour began to come together as he realized that many people didn\u2019t know how historically dense the Financial District actually was. Yet over the past few years, Rivers has noticed that more international tourists were interested in Wall Street and the Stock Exchange since the Occupy Wall Street movement in 2011. \u201cI think there was a lot of limelight put on that area, and that a lot of people are curious about this economic epicenter of the world and what makes it tick,\u201d he added. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">As a naturally curious person, I felt in my element being surrounded by history nerds like me. On most of Rivers\u2019 visits, the tour goers are New York history buffs, neighborhood residents, and people who have traced their ancestry back to the Dutch living in New Amsterdam in the 17th century. \u201cYou can\u2019t talk about New York History unless you go the Dutch\u2026 I mean New Amsterdam is the core New York as we know it,\u201d Rivers told me. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">While walking down Wall Street, I noticed the distinction between the tourists interested in the Financial District, and those interested in the neighborhood\u2019s influence on early American history. Across from Federal Hall, where Washington was sworn in as the first president, sat a souvenir stand selling miniature replicas of the Charging Bull and NYSE flags. Countless people stood in line for the Museum of American Finance, only a few looked up to the George Washington statue standing in front of Federal Hall. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">In the years after Occupy Wall Street, a whole new type of tourist came down onto the Financial District, people who are interested in learning more about finance and economics. Now, tourists aren\u2019t coming down to visit the historically important landmarks like Federal Hall or the South Street Seaport Museum. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">On Wall Street, I spoke to a family on their first trip to New York City from the Bay Area. Though they had only been here a day, they had checked all the boxes of must-see landmarks. \u201cWe\u2019ve been to Rockefeller Center, Times Square, Central Park\u2026 and then after this we\u2019re going to Little Italy for some cake,\u201d the mother told me. They had decided to stop at Wall Street because the son was looking at becoming a stockbroker and the father was interested in the stock exchange. They, too, had taken a Red Bus tour. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Pellagatti felt that other neighborhood walking tours did not provide the complete portrait of the events that took place during Occupy Wall Street. \u201cI was sitting in [Zuccotti] Park one day and I would see a lot of tour guides walking through the park but they would mention Occupy only in passing,\u201d he explained. As he was already a licensed tour guide giving tours about the counterculture and protests in the Financial District, he took it upon himself to \u201cpreempt any situation with other tour guides coming to Zuccotti Park and perhaps doing an Occupy tour without knowing all the facts.\u201d <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Both tours begin on the south side of Bowling Green Park, in front of the Customs House and National Museum of the American Indian, before separating on Broadway. The history of Occupy Wall Street begins there as did the first protest, intersecting with the history of the Dutch arriving on the Mannahatta island. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> Long before activists protested income inequality, long \u00a0before the museum or the Customs House were erected, stood Fort Amsterdam, built in 1625 by the Dutch West Indies Company to defend their settlement: New Netherland. Instead of the art-deco buildings and high rises that tickle the sky, the streets of Lower Manhattan were populated by Dutch colonial buildings with crow-stepped gables and gambrel rooftops. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The National Landmark Preservation Commission (LPC) wrote in 1983 that \u201cThe street plan of lower Manhattan \u2013 south of Wall Street and within the confines of the Dutch settlement of New Amsterdam \u2013 is a striking reminder of New York&#8217;s colonial past and provides virtually the only above-ground physical evidence in Manhattan of the Dutch presence in New York during the 17th century.\u201d <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">When walking around the neighborhood, I noticed the curves of the streets, the natural arc the buildings make as they lean into the narrow paths, making me question whether I was still in Manhattan&#8217;s square grid or roaming the streets of a Western European town. The names of the streets \u2013 Pearl, Water, Bridge\u2013 hint at what used to occupy that space. \u201cNow almost 360 years after the arrival of the first Dutch settlers, lower Manhattan continues to evoke its colonial past through the configuration of its streets,\u201d the LPC statement reads. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Yet many people in the street fail to look for \u00a0the history that inhabits these where they walk. At least that\u2019s what it looks like. Rivers supposes the people who work in the Financial District don\u2019t know much, \u201cbut the people who live down there are more interested in the history of the place they live.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">When Pellagatti began giving tours in 2013, his two-and-a-half hour tour on protests in the Financial District soon became a four to five hour tour once he arrive at Zuccotti Park. In the #OccupyTourNYC, he is able to focus only on the events that went on during the three month period the park was occupied. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cAt Zuccotti Park, I kind of do a run through of the workstations, [and point to] where the media group was, the cigarette rolling group was, where the kitchen was, and then I talk about how the movement was successful and what was problematic,\u201d he said. Past tour-goers write on his website that the tour is engaging, rendered vivid with vignettes of Pellagatti\u2019s life in the encampment. He points to where he slept, where he ate, and where he live-streamed the protests. Most tour goers are teachers and their students and, he added, \u201cthey like to study how the movement became as big as it did as fast as it did, and they like to learn how the movement impacted American society and American politics.\u201d <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Whereas all the buildings from the New Amsterdam era have since been torn down and replaced, the \u00a0layout of the streets has stood the test of time. The streets of the area are registered by the National Landmark Preservation Commission (LPC), and are the only remnants of the Dutch colonial settlement.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Last October, a woman booked a spot on the tour with the condition they stop at a specific address on Broadway. \u201cShe knew her great-great-times-eight-grandfather [had] lived [there], which, of course, is now the corner with a HSBC Bank, but she said \u2018I don\u2019t care, I just want to stand there,\u2019\u201d Rivers shared. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I returned to the neighborhood on a cold Monday evening, hoping to interview someone about FiDi\u2019s history. Rush hour in the Financial District is a sight. Hunched over suits walked hastily \u2013 their head turtled inside their long coats and propped up collars \u2013 across Zuccotti Park to the Cortland Street station where the PATH or subway will beam them home. Gushes of freezing wind were sucked between the buildings, hitting struggling passerbys, arms wrapped around themselves, trying their best to shield the cold from seeping through any uncovered skin. Crowds of people passed by me, all frowning \u00a0and unaware of the history that surrounds them. They were in their own minds. <\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Countless tour buses and souvenir kiosks sit on State Street, right outside Battery Park. This sidewalk \u2013 because of its proximity to the Ellis and Liberty Islands ferries \u2013 is often crowded with out-of-towners waiting to ride the red Big Bus tours that hastily take them around Manhattan\u2019s landmarks. 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